Step 1 Choose your case.

While the availability of small form factor PC cases are becoming increasingly widespread, as is the availability of small form factor motherboards and components, the choices arent as varied as standard size cases and components. Also youll find that small form factor components tend to be more expensive.

The next thing youd have to contend with is the problem of heat. Cramming the latest technology into a tiny case inevitably puts components that generate a huge amount of heat (CPUs, graphics cards, northbridge, etc) closer together which then puts a greater emphasis on cooling. While you could cool the tiny rig with large fans you then encounter another problem, sound. Sure your teeny weeny home theatre PC is smaller than a poodle puppy and looks good near your TV but it generates the equivalent sound of a 747 during takeoff. Defeats the object I think youll agree.

Ditch the dreams of an ultra small HTPC because itll just cause you headaches. Me personally, I value functionality over aesthetics, with that in mind I went for a huge full tower PC case which was built for quiet operation and has the bonus of looking good too. I went for the Thermaltake Armor case in black. After a while you do get used to it in the front room and it becomes part of everyday life. Dont forget that you dont have to place your HTPC case near your TV, you could tuck it away behind the sofa. If your case is going to be on show its a good idea to choose your components so that they match colour-wise.

Step 2 Choose Your Processor.

There are only 2 manufacturers of processor that you should consider; Intel and AMD. There are other manufacturers of processors but they are relatively uncommon and you will have a hard time trying to find components that are compatible. Personally I have always gone for AMD processors with self build projects, they perform on par with Intel processors and are generally cheaper when compared like for like with the Intel chips. Your choice of speed of processor is entirely up to you, some people like to go for the fastest they can afford, while it is true that you need a fairly fast processor you dont need to go overboard if youre just using the your media center PC in the living room to watch TV and listen to music. If you plan to use your media center PC for anything else such as games or video editing then you ought to really focus on buying an upper range model of processor. Dont forget though that generally the faster the processor the more heat it will produce, and heat is the one thing that were trying to keep to a minimum due to the cooling. In my HTPC I opted for an AMD Athlon XP 2400+. This processor is by no means fast by todays standards but it performs the job well using Windows Media Center 2005 (and Windows Vista) and even copes fairly well with the games that I run occasionally. This processor is really cheap now as it has been superseded; a quick search on ebay sees some XP 2400+ processors selling for less than 40. If I were to build one again right now I would probably be opting for a processor that would fit a socket 940 motherboard as this would ensure that the PC is upgradeable in the future should I need to.

Step 3 Choose your motherboard (or mainboard).

The motherboard will be your key purchase, it might not be the most expensive component but choosing a motherboard wisely can maximise the performance of all the other components that are going to attach to it. You dont want to be spending 200 on a processor which isnt performing to its capabilities due to a wrong choice in your 50 motherboard do you? Your choice of motherboard will be primarily determined by your choice of processor. If you have chosen a AMD XP 2400+ processor like the one I have then you will need to choose a socket A motherboard. If you have chosen a newer AMD processor like the AMD Sempron 3600+ for instance, then you will most likely need a socket 940 motherboard. If youve chosen a newer Intel processor like the Pentium D 930 then you will most likely need a socket 775 motherboard. Look at the manufacturers documentation that accompanies the processor and it will tell you which socket of motherboard that it will fit into. Please note that you must buy the right motherboard that will fit your processor, otherwise the two will not fit together in anyway and they will be entirely incompatible.

Now you have determined which socket of motherboard you need its time to shop around. Make sure you buy a motherboard with a decent chipset manufacturer such as Nvidia (nforce chipset), Intel, or VIA (the chipset of the motherboard is handles data traffic between your processor, memory, and any peripherals you may have installed). If you plan to use your Media Center PC primarily for watching TV and listening to music then you might want to consider opting for a motherboard with on board graphics (graphics card built on to the motherboard), on board sound card, and on board LAN/wireless card. This would pretty much take care of most of the components you would need all on one board. If youre going to use your Media Center for games at any point then my advice would be to choose a motherboard that doesnt incorporate on board graphics as the on board graphics built in to motherboards, though they will perform the job of displaying video adequately, dont tend to be that powerful when it comes to gaming. You could also opt to have a separate sound card that provides higher quality sound it all depends on how serious you are about the sound thats going to be coming from your HTPC, for most I think the onboard sound would do (tip: whether going for onboard sound or a separate sound card, make sure its capable of at least 5.1 surround sound for use when watching DVDs. Even if you only plan on using 2 speakers, these cards can be configured for 2 speaker output). In my HTPC I opted for the MSI K7N2 Delta-L socket A motherboard. It came with onboard LAN and onboard 5.1 sound but I chose to add a separate sound card for reasons I shall divulge later.

Step 4 Choose your hard drive (HDD).

This should be quite an easy one. Basically bigger is definitely better. You want as much space as you possibly can if you plan to record a lot of films and programs. Dont be tempted to go for the 10,000 rpm models of hard drive though as they are louder and generate a lot of heat, you probably wont notice much of a performance gain by using this type of hard drive in a Media Center environment anyhow. In my setup I went for the Maxtor Diamondmax 10 300gb 7200rpm IDE hard drive which is plenty space for all my film recordings and music, I also use my Media Center PC as a file server for my other PC and laptop, so my suggestion is that around 300gb of hard drive space will suffice. Be sure to choose the type of hard drive interface connection that suits your motherboard, i.e. if your motherboard supports the SATA interface choose a hard drive that also uses the SATA interface. Note that the two interfaces (SATA and IDE) are not interchangeable. The most recent motherboards usually come with both interfaces integrated into the board so you shouldnt have a problem.

Hard drives are also a big contributor to the noise and heat problem, it might be a wise idea to invest in a hard drive silencer/cooler, I want my HTPC to be as quiet as possible so I went for the Scythe Quiet Drive which is a HDD silencer and cooler all in one.

Step 5 Choose your memory (RAM).

The main thing to look for when buying RAM (Random Access Memory) is making sure it is compatible with the motherboard you have purchased. If your motherboard says it supports DDR400 then this means that it only supports RAM which is Double Data Rate (DDR) and will only support speeds of RAM up to 400MHz (yes RAM has a speed it operates at too). In some cases if a motherboard says it supports up to DDR400 it also means that it will support the formats below it, for example; a DDR400 motherboard may also support DDR333, DDR266, and DDR200 RAM modules. It has to be noted that you cannot use SDRAM in a DDR interface and vice versa. Another thing to look out for is if your motherboard supports Dual Channel RAM. The idea behind Dual Channel RAM is that you install 2 identical RAM modules on you motherboard in the banks that are designated for Dual Channel operation. The data that comes from your processor is then effectively split into 2 parts, the 1st part is sent to the first RAM module and the 2nd part is sent to the other RAM module. Because the data is split into 2 in an interleaving way this has the theoretical effect of doubling the read/write performance of data that is sent to and from the processor. If this is the way you want to go with your HTPC then you should be looking for a Dual Channel kit of RAM. It has to be noted that just because your motherboard states it has Dual Channel capabilities it doesnt mean you have to use a Dual Channel kit of RAM, you can just use 1 module of RAM if you wish and it will still do the job, just not as quick as it could be. Once you have determined the speed and type of RAM you need its time to look at how much RAM you actually need. Again my advice is bigger is better but dont go over the top. I have used a Corsair 1gb DDR 400 Dual Channel kit (2 identical 512mb modules of RAM) in my setup and it manages perfectly well.

Step 6 Choose your DVD Drive.

This is quite straight forward as you will need a DVD drive that can read all available formats of disc and also able to write to all formats of disc for when you need to backup films or music, pick a DVD that writes Dual Layer +R and R formats. The speed at which it writes is totally up to you, generally the faster it can write to a disc the more expensive it will be. Be sure to pick one with a colour that is going to match your case though or itll stick out like a sore thumb. Generally a good make of DVD burner that will write all formats costs around 30. The make of DVD writer that I chose was a LiteOn. Ive had a lot of experience with this manufacturer of DVD drives and I can tell you that they are good value for money.

Step 7 Choose your graphics card.

If you have gone for the motherboard with on the on board graphics then you can skip this part as it doesnt apply. If you have chosen to go for a separate graphics card then I assume its because you also intend to use your Media Center PC for games. With this option the skys the limit with graphics cards, some top end cards can cost you more than all the other components of the PC combined. I have found from previous experience that cards that cost around the 120 mark usually perform really well with games and they wont break the bank. Dont forget though that the more powerful the graphics card then generally the hotter it gets and the more cooling that has to be applied to it. Graphics cards are renowned for have the worst sounding cooling fans that whine at just the right pitch that it drives you mad. If you have chosen to go for a separate graphics card then it might be worth spending that bit extra and buying a fanless heatsink to go with it. This is the option I have gone for and you will really appreciate it in the long run. Also worth noting is the different sorts of output present on the card such as S-Video etc, as this will determine if the card is compatible with the inputs on your current TV.

Step 8 Choose your power supply.

Power supplies generally put out quite a lot of noise due the amount of power they have to cope with while running all the components in your system. Remember generally speaking power = heat = noise due to cooling. If you have an unlimited budget then Id tell you to go for a fanless power supply as these are ideal, they generally have large heatsinks and use heat pipe technology to dissipate the heat. The downside to this is that they cost a small fortune for one thats any good. My recommendation would be to go for a power supply with a fairly large power rating that is billed as silent and contains a 120mm fan. Remember that you need a power supply that can provide more power than the sum of the maximum power ratings of all the components that make up your system. My general experience with power supplies is that you cant really trust what it says on the box. If it says its silent and costs 10 then what youll find is that its silent for about a minute before you turn it on, once you turn it on it sounds like a small hovercraft! In order to achieve a near silent power supply using a large fan it really is a case of you get what you pay for. In my opinion you need to spend between 30 and 40 to get a decent power supply that you could call silent, unless youre feeling brave then you can do what I have done. Im quite reluctant to spend money where I think Im being ripped off. In the case of so called decent silent power supplies I think people are being charged over the odds for what is basically a bog standard power supply with a slightly better fan (no doubt someone will point out to me the other factors which justify power supplies costing more). With this in mind I took my 500W Qtec silent power supply with 120mm fan which cost 15 (this power supply is about as far from silent as possible!) and exchanged the fan for a truly silent Zalman Silenx Vario 120mm fan from Puresilence. Hey presto, a very very quiet power supply and all it cost was 25 in total and a bit of screwdriver action!

*DISCLAIMER* If you choose to swap out the fan in your power supply to one other than the manufacturers specifications then you do so at your own risk. It could cause a fire and will certainly invalidate your warranty. I wont be held responsible for any damages that may occur due to malfunction of your power supply.

Step 9 Choose your Cooling.

Now this is a biggy, what you want is as much cooling as possible i.e. a number of case fans. While also being as quiet as possible i.e. the bigger the fans the better, bigger fans = slower rotation (while still providing the same throughput of air) = less noise. You also might want to think about swapping the standard heatsinks, that come with your processor, northbridge chipset, and graphics cards to fanless ones. I already chose a graphics card that came with a fanless heatsink so it was just a case of finding a suitable fanless heatsink for my processor and northbridge. There were many options to choose from but I opted for the Thermaltake SilentTower which cost 20 from DCS Doncaster for my processor because it will run perfectly well fanless but also allows you to add 2 large 90mm fans for extra cooling should you want to. For my northbridge I opted for the Zalman ZM-NB47J Silent Motherboard Heatsink which was 6.00 from QuietPC. Of course if youre going to use fanless heatsinks in your setup then this puts even more emphasis on the need for case fans, if you dont have adequate heat exhaustion in your case then the heat from your heatsinks will warm up all the components in your system and thus compromises performance, or worst case scenario a component fails. This is the main reason why I chose the Thermaltake Armor case, it has shed loads of ventilation and is provided with 2 x 120mm and 2 x 90mm quiet fans. If you need to buy quiet fans I recommend the Pure Silence website. I bought one of the 120mm silent fans from their site to replace the one in my power supply and I can confirm that they are deathly silent.

I also recommend that you buy a fan speed controller, this is a device that usually fits into one of the 5.25 drive bays on the front of your PC, it allows you to control the exact speed of all your fans, i.e. you can make you PC as quiet as you like but also be able to ramp up all the fan speeds should you need that little bit of extra cooling.

I opted for the Thermaltake Hardcano13 which cost 36.75 from DCS Doncaster as it matched my case and also came with a built in card reader to boot.

Step 10 Choose your TV tuner card.

There are many different options you can go for when choosing a TV tuner card. Some cards have just a single analogue tuner, some have digital HDTV capabilities, some have 2 tuners on the same board so you can watch 1 channel while recording another, and some are combinations of the previous. You have to think to yourself what youre going to use your PC for, is it just to watch TV or are you planning to download any home videos from your camcorder any time soon, if the answer is yes then you want some sort of AV input.

Bearing in mind that all TV is due to switch to digital transmission in the UK, and the advent of digital HDTV, I opted for the Dvico Fusion dual HDTV DVB-T tuner which cost 114.95 from theglowlounge. This card comes with a well built remote, works brilliantly, and also has AV input, you can read a detailed review of this card at johnsreviews.

Step 11 Choose your control device.

Now that you have chosen all the necessary components its time to choose your control devices. You have the option of the classic TV style remote or you can be really flashy and go for a full media centre keyboard, or both!

Microsoft produces good quality products for Windows Media Center, which of course are 100% compatible and require little in the way of setting up. There are many other third party products that are well worth looking at though; I chose to go for the Logitech Cordless Desktop S 510 with Media Remote which cost 49.99 from what used to be Dixons, the remote requires a little bit of setting up due to the customizable keys but nothing too difficult even if you have little experience with PCs. What I liked about this remote is that it is smaller than most of the other media center remotes and it has a unique scroll wheel in the centre which allows you to fly through menus and TV guides at lightning speeds! Most media center remotes will do the job, its all down to a matter of personal taste.

Step 12 Assembly.

So thats it youve chosen all your components, laid them all out in front of you, but havent the faintest idea where to start. Well I could spend another month writing pages and pages of instructions on how to install every component and configure the PC for optimal performance but I think the following videos can explain it just as well and in less time!

Please note that the instructional videos apply to the general building of PCs but exactly the same principles apply to building a Home Theatre PC.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB9T5eYvklM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ignSGg1ZFkY

You can find more reviews and how to's by visiting http://www.johnsreviews.com

¶ 7:30 PM 0 comments

Kia vehicles have managed to make significant strides in quality and durability since being introduced to the US market in 1994. Widely panned by critics as producing cheaply built and cheaply priced models, some Kia models are now performing at average or slightly above. The Kia Rio is not one of these cars, however. Only the extended warranty makes the Rio worth a look otherwise slightly more expensive cars from Toyota are preferable.

With a base MSRP of just $10,735, the Kia Rio is touted as still the most affordable 4-door sedan in America. Certainly, when it comes to price, the Rio is a winner. Add in standard features such as dual remote mirrors, driver lumbar support seats, and the extended warranty, and the car is a value leader. Of course, air conditioning will cost you extra and dont expect to find any type of radio in the car either unless you pay extra for it. Remember, the emphasis is on value, not equipment.

The Kia is powered by a 1.6L DOHC 16 valve I4 engine paired with a five speed manual transmission. The five passenger sedan produces an anemic 104hp; a four speed automatic transmission is optional.

Various upgrade packages allow consumers to select additional comfort and convenience options as well as safety features including four wheel antilock brakes. One almost thinks that a customer would do better purchasing the basic model and then purchasing Kia accessories through a parts wholesaler to maximize the cars value.

The best part of the Rio -- or any Kia car for that matter -- is the extended warranty, one of the best in the industry. Without it, the Rio would be truly forgettable. Kias warranty covers the following:

Roadside Assistance: 5 years / unlimited miles

The Kia Rio serves the purpose of providing cheap, basic transportation. If you drive a lot and need an economical car, then the Rio is worth a look. Just dont think that the car rises to the level of a Toyota, otherwise you will be sorely disappointed. You may get five or six good years out of the car before its value decreases to the point where it simply should be discarded.

Matt Keegan is an automotive enthusiast and contributing writer for the Auto Parts Warehouse [APW]. At APW, we supply quality Kia accessories for your Rio, Sedona, Amanti, or other fine Kia vehicle.

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  ¶ 3:23 PM 0 comments

INSTALLING A COMPOSITE SHOWER PAN IS FAST AND EASY. Before discussing the simple steps to install a composite shower pan, I felt that some clarification and definitions are necessary because not all shower pans are alike.

WHAT IS IN A NAME? A roof is a roof, although there are many different roofing systems and roofing materials. Not true with shower pans. They are often interchangeably called a shower pan, shower pan liner, shower pan membrane liner, waterproof barrier, shower base, shower tray, or shower receptor. Yet, each has a different meaning depending on context and each are available in a variety of materials.

Bob Vilas web site defines a SHOWER PAN as The base, containing a water drain, of the shower enclosure. And a SHOWER RECEPTOR as A one-piece base (floor) unit used as a shower, for example, to catch water and direct it to a center drain.

For the sake of clarity, I offer the following definitions.

SHOWER PAN & SHOWER BASE A finished area that is capable of retaining and directing water to the drain plus it doesnt require tiling once installed. The shower pan or base has a drain hole, sloped floor to properly direct water to the drain hole, sidewalls, and a threshold (entrance to the shower that forms a curb to keep water from running out onto the bathroom floor). A shower pan is synonymous with a shower base.

SHOWER PAN LINER, MEMBRANE LINER, & WATERPROOF BARRIER A barrier, usually a plastic sheet or membrane, that is intended to trap water that penetrates the shower floor tile, grout, and mortar under the tile and force the water to flow to the drain. As long as it doesnt leak, it prevents water from reaching the sub-floor and surrounding wall enclosure. The liner is a component within a constructed shower pan. A shower pan liner is synonymous with a shower pan membrane liner and a waterproof barrier.

SHOWER TRAY & SHOWER RECEPTOR A shower tray is synonymous with a shower receptor. Both are used in place of a liner. They serve the same function as the liner, but are pre-formed to eliminate some of the installation steps necessary when using a liner.

Shower pan liners, shower trays, and shower receptors are all used in conjunction with the construction of a shower pan that has a tiled floor as well as a tiled wall enclosure.

Commercially available shower pans are complete, ready-to-install units. They eliminate the need to create a mud sloped floor, a shower liner or tray, and tiling of the shower floor.

COMPOSITE SHOWER PANS. As composite shower pans are made from a number of different materials and constructed differently. I wanted to touch on each of the most common types. Composite shower pans fall into several material groups; cultured marble, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface. Generally all are made by fabrication of flat sheets, thermal-formed from a single piece of material, or molded or cast to form a one piece unit. The one-piece construction eliminates seams, which in turn eliminates potential leaks. Each has their pluses and minuses. Because beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I will not comment on appearance. All composite shower pans install on a flat, level floor and do not require the creation of a sloped mud base. Also, the cast or molded pans generally do not require the use of a plastic membrane.

Cultured marble and dressier versions, like cultured onyx and granite, tend to be the least costly. Cultured marble is made by spraying a gel-coat onto a mold. This coating is about 1/64 or less in thickness. The gel-coat is covered with pigmentation and then backed with calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate gives the finished part its strength. Also, in the casting process it is infused with air pockets to lower its density and weight.

The cultured marble floor is cast separately from the sidewalls. Thus, the incorporation of a shower pan liner is essential to insure a watertight, leak free installation. Although widely used, the down side of cultured marble is that other than the gel-coat layer, the calcium carbonate is highly porous. Any crack or scratch through the gel-coat will allow water penetration. Other gel-coat characteristics include; yellowing, even without UV exposure; clouding from hot tap water; staining; crazing (fine hairline cracks); and it is not reparable when cracked or chipped.

Fiberglass is widely used as well. Fiberglass is strong, light weight and inexpensive. Many fiberglass manufacturers make one-piece shower pans and enclosures and one-piece combination tubs and showers with the wall enclosures. Similar to cultured marble, fiberglass is made with a gel-coat, then backed with pigment and chopped strands of fiberglass in a resin mixture. Generally the finished product is about 1/8 to 1/4 in thickness. The underside of the shower pan floor has webbing added to provide support to the floor. As the floor is not solid, the unsupported space between the webbing can flex. This flexing is especially noticeable with heavy loading or where one is standing between to the webbing. Over time, the flexing can cause material fatigue and cracking. Once a crack develops, the pan has failed.

Acrylic sheets are used to vacuum form shower pans, bathtubs, spas and many other items. The vacuum forming process begins with a 1/4 sheet of pigmented acrylic that is heated to a temperature that makes the acrylic ductile. The sheet is placed on a mold and stretched over the form to create the finished shape. The heating and stretching of the sheet causes a reduction in wall thickness. The reduction is directly proportional to the amount of stretching that occurs. With shower pans there is far less material reduction than with creating a tub or spa. The heating, stretching, and cooling of the material could also introduce stresses to the finished pan.

Like fiberglass pans, acrylic pans need support elements under the pan floor. A commonly used support element is polyurethane foam. The foam fills the void and eliminated the flexing of the pan floor. Acrylic sheet material is susceptible to crazing, minute surface cracking, and cracking when cleaned with many common cleaning chemicals. Should crazing occur, over time these cracks can lead to a pan failure.

Acrylic sheets have very different physical and chemical properties than acrylic solid surface materials. In addition to the acrylic resin used in solid surface, the solid surface material receives additional physical and chemical characteristics from the addition of alumina-tri-hydrate, or ATH. The ATH causes cleaners that adversely affect acrylic to have no affect on solid surface.

Solid surface shower pans are the top-of-the-line in physical and chemical characteristics as well as performance, reparability and a myriad of other features and benefits. The primary features of solid surface are it is non-porous, will not support the growth of mold, mildew, or bacteria, is available in a large variety of looks (some like natural granite) and colors, and is 100% repairable should chipping, scratching, or even cracking occur. Health departments throughout the country have approved solid surface materials for use in hospitals and food preparation areas for its resistance to bacterial growth, ease of cleaning and maintenance, and resistance to staining and contamination.

Some solid surface shower pan manufacturers fabricate their pans from sheet goods in a similar fashion as the acrylic shower pans. That is, they thermal form the pan floors by heating and stretching the material and then bond sidewalls and a threshold to the floor.

The Royal Stone brand of solid surface shower pans are the pans that I manufacture and will use to illustrate the simplicity and ease of installation that can be had when installing a composite shower pan. Unlike fabricated solid surface shower pans, the Royal Stone shower pans are a cast one-piece solid surface product. By casting the pan as a one-piece unit, there are no stresses introduced in the pan, and there are many other features engineered and designed into this pan.

The most obvious features are the large radius transition between the pan floor and its sidewalls. Secondly, the flange (also called a weep edge) is 1-1/2 tall. I have seen pans that do not incorporate an integral flange or have flanges 1/2 to 1 tall. The added height is designed to minimize, if not eliminate, any water being drawn up behind the wall surround panels that could cause water damage to the shower sub-structure.

Royal Stones pans have a minimum wall thickness of 1/2 and the webbing elements have a wide foot with large stress relieving radius corners between the pan floor and the webbing. All shower pans are engineered to support the weight of 3/4 thick (2 cm) granite slabs as well as all other commonly used wall materials like tile, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface panels. Finally, regardless of floor loading, the Royal Stone pan floor is so solid that it feels like one is standing on a rigid concrete floor. There is no perceptible flexing or oil-canning of the pan floor. Thus, there is no possibility of floor fatigue and cracking over time and the potential for pan failure is eliminated.

INSTALLATION IS FAST AND EASY. As I have already stated, composite pans install on a flat sub-floor. The following installation information may not apply to all types of composite shower pans. Specifically, I have direct knowledge of installing the cast one-piece solid surface shower pans that Royal Stone manufactures. Thus, the following directly applies to Royal Stones standard and custom shower pans. The same steps should also apply to other types of composite pans and other materials, however, follow the manufacturers recommended installation instructions.

As a manufacturer, I do not install pans. The photos included within this article were provided by a local installer. They were supplemented by photos of a different pan, for clarity of the installation process. Thus the different pan color and shape. Further, most of the photos were from a unique plumbing situation. The home had all of the plumbing above ground. Thus, a particleboard platform was built above the plumbing for the shower. The following installation information applies to concrete, plywood, particleboard, wood, etc. sub-floors at, above, or below grade.

Step #1 SUB-FLOOR PREPARATION: Using the template provided with the shower pan, place template on the floor and verify that the drain is in the correct location. If the drain is NOT properly located, relocate the drain. NOTE: Relocating the drain is usually far less expensive than having a custom pan cast to accommodate your existing drain location.

The hole in the sub-floor needs to be larger than the drain pipe. About a 6 round or square hole (about the size of a coffee can) is recommended. This larger opening allows room for the drain assembly that extends below the bottom of the pan. Most drain pipes are 2 PVC. The PVC pipe allows for some flexing within the 6 opening in the sub-floor. This flexing is desired and makes the pan installation easier. The PVC pipe should extend above the finished sub-floor by a minimum of 1/2 to about 3 to 4.

The sub-floor can be wood, plywood, concrete or any other rigid or well supported surface. The sub-floor must be level and free from debris. To assure a level floor, check the floor with a long level as shown in Fig. 1. The longer the level, the more likely that the sub-floor will be level at its greatest dimensions. Check front to back at the left and right sides and at the center. Do the same from side to side. Finally, check the diagonals. Fig. 2 indicates the location of the 8 readings that should be taken.

Depending on the results of the level measurements, some additional prep may be necessary. If the sub-floor is relatively flat, shims may be used to make the shower pan level. If the floor is uneven and out of level, pouring self leveling thin-set material may be necessary.

Once the sub-floor is level and the opening for the drain is correct, the setting of the shower pan is next.

Step #2 ATTACH DRAIN ASSEMBLY TO PAN: A standard 2 part Brass Drain Assembly is recommended, as shown in Fig. 3. This type of assembly should be readily available at any plumbing supply store or home improvement store. Royal Stone also sells this drain assembly. Disassemble the drain assembly. Keeping the components in order makes reassembly faster and easier.

Place the pan on saw horses or any raised platform that allows access to the top and bottom of the pan. Spray the drain opening with rubbing alcohol, Fig. 4. With a clean rag, wipe the surface and interior edge of the pre-cut drain opening, to remove any dust or other contaminants from the pans drain area. Around the drain opening apply a generous bead of 100% silicone, Fig. 5.

Insert Brass Drain Body, Part #5 of the Brass Drain Assembly into the drain hole, Fig. 6, and press firmly into place, Fig. 7.

Step #3 REMOVE EXCESS SILICONE: Remove the excess silicone from the Drain Body, Part #5. Spray an alcohol mist over the drain area and the silicone, Fig. 8. With a Dap-Cap, scoop away the excess silicone, Fig. 9. This step may have to be repeated several times to completely remove the silicone. Last, spray a mist of alcohol and wipe remaining film away from the Drain Body, Part #5, with a soft cloth.

Step #4 MOUNT DRAIN LOCKING RING: Attach the Drain Strainer, Part #1, to assure that the Drain Body, Part #5, is centered within the drain hole, Fig. 10. From the bottom side of the shower pan, attach Parts #6, 7, & 8 to Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #8 until snug. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Over tightening may crack the shower pan. Remove the Drain Strainer, Part #1, and set aside.

If any additional silicone has been squeezed out from between the shower pan drain and the Drain Body, Part #5, repeat Step #3 until all excess silicone has been removed.

HANDLING TIP: Using a set of glazers grips allows for easier handling and moving the pan into the proper location. If these are not available, brute force also works.

Step #5 DRY FIT THE SHOWER PAN: Lower the shower pan into place. Make sure that about 1/8 space exists between the shower pan flange and the studs. With the level, confirm that the pan is sitting flat on the floor as shown in Fig. 11 & 12. If additional shimming is required, lift pan and place shimming material where required. Lower the pan into place and check for level. Repeat until the pan is level.

CAUTION: When leaning and handling the shower pan, handle carefully to prevent damage to the shower pans flange.
A LEVEL PAN IS ESSENTIAL FOR PROPER DRAINAGE.

Step #6 SILICONE THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN: Lift pan and lean against one of the studded walls. Apply 100% silicone caulking to the webbing, Fig. 13, on the underside of the shower pan . Also, apply a thick silicone ring around the drain opening in the sub-floor, Fig. 14. If shims were used, silicone all shims into position on sub floor as required.

Step #7 SET SHOWER PAN: Lower shower pan into place. Check the pan for level. Press down as necessary to re-level the shower pan. Apply a silicone bead along the front edge of the threshold to seal the threshold of the pan to the sub-floor.

Step #8 CONNECT DRAIN PIPE TO DRAIN ASSEMBLY: Inject silicone completely around and between the drain pipe and the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, as shown in Fig. 15. Place the Rubber Gasket, Part #4 of the Drain Assembly, over the PVC pipe and slide down until the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is completely seated and is below the top of the Drain Assemble, Fig. 16. Screw the Locking Ring, Part #3 of the Drain Assembly onto the Drain Body, Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #3, with the Tightening Tool, Part #2 until the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is seated and tightly in place.

Step #9 TRIMMING THE PVC: The top of the PVC drain pipe MUST NOT extend above the Brass Drain Body, Part #5. If it is at the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, or extends above the top, trim the PVC so that it is about 1/4 lower than the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5 but is taller than the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4. Cut the PVC pipe with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

If the Tightening Tool, Part #2 has not already been removed, remove it and press the Drain Strainer, Part #1, into place. The installation is complete. Excluding any sub-floor preparation, the installation should take about one hour or less.

Step #10 CURING: Let the shower pan set for 24 to 48 hours to allow the silicone to properly cure. Once cured, the wallboard and wall panels can be installed.

CAUTION: When attaching solid surface shower pans and wall panels, ONLY use 100% SILICONE. Other adhesives or caulks may harden. The loss of the elastic bond between the solid surface and other materials can cause stresses in the solid surface. In turn, these stresses may cause fractures of the part and void the manufacturers warranty.

Milton Lemberg is President and Marketing & Sales Manager of Royal Stone Industries. He holds a degree in mechanical engineering and is the engineer and designer of the shower pans Royal Stone offers. Any questions should be directed to Mr. Lemberg at milt@royalstoneind.com or to Royal Stone Industries, Inc., 2949 N. 31st Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85017. For further information on Royal Stones 22 standard shower pans, custom shaped shower pans, wall surround kits and accessories, and 48 standard colors, visit Royal stones web site at http://royalstoneind.com/products_Shower.asp

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